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Engaging History: The Romantic Traditions of Rings
By J. A. Young
Historians have discovered some evidence for engagement
customs extending back to the time of cavemen. Throughout ancient and modern
history there exist an astounding variety of traditions associated with
rings—especially romantic traditions centered on engagement and marriage. The
subsequent text discusses engagement and wedding rings from history through the
present.
Today’s gold band symbolizes many qualities prized by
wearers; one of these is the idea of eternity. The eternal gold band is
actually traced to ancient Egyptian pharaohs. Egyptians believed that the ring
symbolized no beginning and no end.
The custom of giving a ring in pledge of marriage was firmly
established by the Romans. The earliest Roman rings were made of iron but
these were soon replaced by gold by the 100 A.D. Eventually Christians would
adopt the practice of ring giving as well.
Gem-encrusted rings were popular with wealthy people of the
medieval era. Both diamonds and gems were used for engagement rings. Colored
gems were heavily symbolic referring to qualities such as love, chastity and
faith.
Ruby was the essential gem to convey love. Sapphires
conjured the idea of heaven and so were associated with religious piety.
Colored gems were popular rings of betrothal.
The diamond really had its start as a gem of engagement
during this period as well. The first diamond engagement ring on record is
dated to 1477.
Diamonds did not gain their exclusive engagement footing
until the twentieth century when the De Beers Company began to market them
heavily for this position. Even still, other gems may be offered instead.
Prince Charles gave Princess Diana a ring only encrusted with diamonds—the main
stone was a large sapphire.
Artisans specializing in engagement rings also paid
attention to the band itself. Posy rings featured words, messages, or poems
inscribed on the inner band. This custom is still practiced today even though
it, too, dates from medieval times.
The Jewish wedding rings dating from the Renaissance have a
reputation as some of the most intricate rings ever fashioned. Heavily
ornamented, carved and inscribed with Hebrew inscriptions and enamel, these
rings were not for everyday wear and worn only for the wedding ceremony and
special occasions.
The Renaissance is also noted for the marriages rings in the
gimmel styles. These rings featured two or three bands that fanned opened to
reveal a symbolic sculpture. Later gimmel rings revealed clasped hands or
hearts. Gimmel rings were extensively given in Germany.
While today wedding rings are worn on the fourth finger (on
the left hand), 17th century wedding rings were actually sported on
the thumb. Wearing the ring on the fourth finger of the left hand can be
traced to the ancient Egyptians said this finger traced the vena amoris
straight to the heart.
The Victorians used diamonds increasingly as new mines in Brazil and Africa were discovered making the gems more affordable for a burgeoning middle class
especially by the latter years of the era. Victorian rings were considerably
ornate as was the fashion of other jewels.
In the twentieth century Tiffany advanced diamond engagement
rings with his open mount setting that allowed diamonds to shine better than
ever. Older types of settings actually hid much of the gem.
Today, diamonds in a myriad of settings and styles are
presented as engagement rings. While in most places the woman wears the
engagement ring, in Scandinavian countries both male and female typically wear
engagement rings.
While most couples purchase engagement rings in contemporary
styles, an increasing number opt for historic replicas which carry the history
of the romantic tradition with them.
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